Unless you are bouldering or free soloing (which we strongly advise against unless you’re Alex Honnold), a rock climbing harness is not just a piece of equipment but your primary safety tool. It connects you to a rope(s) anchored to the climbing wall, ensuring your safety at all times. It’s a crucial element that provides security and protection, allowing you to focus on the climb.
Every year, major climbing gear manufacturers like Petzel, Mammut, Black Diamond, and Arc’teryx invest in modifying and perfecting their harness designs, releasing new models amidst the selection of proven favorites. This ongoing commitment to innovation and safety is significant and not one to take lightly. To help direct your search toward the best, most trustworthy harness on the market, here’s a list of five to consider, each designed with a specific climber in mind.
Before diving into the list, there are a few essential features to consider when choosing a harness. The first is gear loops. These are u-shaped loops on the sides and back of a harness designed to clip quickdraws, carabiners, and other gear you may need. These are less important for someone primarily climbing in the gym but essential for outdoor, trad, alpine, mixed, or ice climbers. You’ll want a harness with sufficient and sturdy gear loops for the extra supplies you bring on the climb. The second important feature is comfort/padding. A climber typically dons a harness for a few hours, whether switching between climbing and belaying or ascending a multi-pitch route. Choosing a harness that provides maximum comfort is crucial, allowing you to focus on the climb without distraction. These harnesses are designed with your comfort in mind, ensuring you can concentrate on your climb.
Ultimately, the harness you choose will be the one that feels the most comfortable and fits your budget, but keep in mind the features that will be useful for the climbing you’ll be doing.
Top 5 Rock Climbing Harnesses
Black Diamond harnesses are among the most popular, and you’re guaranteed to spot one when you’re climbing in the gym, if not on a climber, then in the retail shop. The Momentum is a slightly more affordable model with adjustable leg straps. Both offer comfort, relatively low prices, and durability. Often, you’ll see the Momentum bundled with an ATC, chalk, and a chalk bag for a complete beginner sport climbing kit.
- Best Splurge: Arc’teryx AR-385A or AR-395A HARNESS
If you have the budget, the Arc’teryx harnesses are well worth the splurge. Arc’teryx designed AR (all around) to live up to the name, making it the perfect gym, trad, alpine, mixed, or ice climbing harness.
Both models are fantastic harnesses for gym climbing, offering four gear loops, padded waistbands, and leg loops. Petzel enhanced Sama’s comfort by widening the waistband in the back. The Selena provides all the same features as the Sama, but Petzel designed the harness with female anatomy in mind. Petzl designed a contoured waistbelt to conform to your lower back, made a longer rise so the waistbelt can sit higher over your hips, and used a women’s specific waist-to-leg-loop ratio.
- Best Budget: Camp Energy CR3
The Camp Energy CR3 is the perfect harness if you’re looking for an affordable, no-frills option that gets the job done. It may not look the sleekest compared to the other top harnesses, but this is the most affordable harness in the line-up, offering a lightweight design suitable for all types of climbing. It features four gear loops like many other options on the list and four gear loops.
- Best for Outdoor Climbing: Petzel Sitta
If you want the lightest, most comfortable harness for trying hard but staying safe, the Petzel Sitta is a fantastic option. On the pricey side, due to its high-performance design, this harness provides comfort with five gear loops and a lightweight, easy-to-pack design. The Sitta is an excellent option for climbing outdoors and tackling trad, alpine, or big-wall projects.
Whether you need one of these top five rock climbing harnesses or another version, there is a climbing harness for you. You can narrow your search once you decide on your climbing goals, preferences, and budget. For now, check out the Black Diamond Momentum or Solutions, Petzel Sitta, Sama, or Selena, Arc’teryx AR-385 or AR-395, or the Camp Energy CR3 and see if any of these top contenders check off all your boxes!