When climbing is your passion, a finger injury can be a significant roadblock. But does it have to be? Here’s an in-depth look at managing a finger injury without hanging up your climbing shoes.
Understanding Finger Injuries in Climbers
Finger injuries are among the most common injuries climbers face. Overuse can also affect tendons, pulleys, ligaments, or even bones. Pulley tears, tendon strains, and joint sprains are especially prevalent. Identifying the type of injury early is crucial to determining the best course of action.
Oftentimes, finger injuries can be self-diagnosed. But if you experience pain, swelling, or a limited range of motion, don’t dismiss it as minor discomfort and try to power through, hoping it will subside. A precise diagnosis, often involving a healthcare professional or physiotherapist, can prevent further damage.
Assessing the Severity of Your Injury
Not all finger injuries are created equal. Some can heal with rest and care, while others demand more serious intervention. Mild strains or soreness might only require a few days of recovery, whereas partial or full pulley tears could take weeks or months to rehabilitate.
To assess the severity of your finger injury, ask yourself these questions:
● Is there swelling or discoloration?
● Do you feel sharp pain during gripping or pulling movements?
● Has your strength significantly decreased?
Answering these can guide your decision to either rest or seek professional advice. If you answered ‘yes’ to all three, seek professional guidance.
Modifying Your Climbing Approach
Can you still climb? Possibly—but with modifications! Reducing the load on the injured finger is essential. This may mean avoiding crimps, dynamic moves, or anything that stresses your injury.
Focus on open-handed grips and footwork to shift pressure away from your hands. Opt for easier routes that prioritize technique over strength. No more big overhang climbs. Stick to the slab and vert wall for a little while.
Good can come from a bad situation, like a finger injury. Instead of moping about and feeling down, treat this as an opportunity to refine your climbing skills and build a stronger foundation. You likely haven’t returned to the basics since you started climbing, and there’s always room for improvement.
Incorporating Recovery into Your Routine
Rest is your friend, truly. Resting is hard for most climbers because, well, they love climbing. You’ve probably seen other climbers with plenty of different fingers taped, pushing through their pain because they can’t get enough. Anything that takes them away from their love is seen as an enemy.
Active recovery, such as gentle stretching, finger massages, and mobility exercises, can speed up healing. Gradually reintroduce climbing with controlled movements, paying close attention to pain signals.
Cold therapy can reduce swelling, while warm soaks promote blood flow during healing. Strengthening exercises like finger rolls and rice bucket drills can help rebuild resilience once your injury has improved.
Preventing Future Finger Injuries
Prevention is better than cure. Although this may not help you now, it will in the future! Warm up thoroughly before climbing, focusing on your hands and fingers.
To get your blood pumping and get ready for your session, perform tendon glides and light climbing/fingerboard. Hangboard training is an excellent way to build strength and prevent finger injuries, but overdoing it can backfire. Balance is key.
Listen to your body. Persistent soreness or fatigue is a sign to scale back intensity. Rest is your friend. Consider taping it when you return to pulling hard to support the injured finger. Gradually increase the difficulty until no pain persists.
When to Seek Professional Help
If your injury isn’t improving or worsens despite rest, it’s time to consult a specialist. Ongoing swelling, deformity, or loss of function should never be ignored. Your goal is to climb pain-free, so you must care for and listen to your body.
A physical therapist or sports medicine professional can provide a tailored recovery plan. Online climbing physios can also help identify climbing injuries and inform you how to proceed.
You’ll Climb Pain-Free Again!
A finger injury doesn’t mean the end of your climbing journey—it’s a temporary detour. By understanding your injury, making smart modifications, and focusing on recovery, you can stay connected to the sport you love.
If missing out on social hour at the gym has you down, who said you can’t go hang out? Just don’t climb if you shouldn’t yet! Patience and persistence are your greatest allies as you work toward healing and reclaiming the walls.