Pushing your heights will require you to know how to pick a climbing rope. You don’t want to grab just any 9.5 70m Semi-Dry Bicolored Rope off the rack at REI because what even is that?
Understanding the specific purpose of a climbing rope is crucial when adding to your gear. So, ask yourself, ‘What will I use it for?’ This knowledge will guide you in making the right choice.
Dynamic VS Static Climbing Ropes
The distinction between dynamic and static climbing ropes is straightforward. One is for climbing (dynamic), and the other is not (static). This clear choice should give you confidence in your decision-making process.
Dynamic Climbing Rope: Dynamic ropes are constructed explicitly for rock climbing to include some elongation in the event of a fall. The rope’s somewhat elastic properties make it stretch and absorb the impact of a fall.
Dynamic ropes are used in any style of climbing involving a rope: top roping, sport climbing, traditional climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering—essentially, any situation where a climber may fall and weigh the rope.
Static Climbing Rope: Static ropes are not used for climbing but have a place within the sport. A static rope is not stretchy like a dynamic rope and will cause harsh and possibly harmful falls if used for climbing.
Static ropes are typically used by route setters, cannoneers, rescue operations – any application where you’re not falling on it. A static rope is best used for hauling, lowering, and ascending, such as when you have a fixed line on a big wall or are a route setter at a gym.
Dry or Non-Dry Climbing Rope?
Again, the type of rope you should pick will depend on the style of climbing you’ll be performing or the weather you’ll use it in. Are you planning to use it strictly indoors, or do you picture yourself hiking up a snow-covered mountain?
Dry Rope: Dry ropes are constructed with a water-repellent coating that prevents the rope from absorbing water.
Dry ropes are designed to stay dry in wet conditions. Situations, where you want a dry rope, are mountaineering, alpine climbing, or anywhere in a questionable weather setting. Because of their extra water-repellant properties, dry ropes are more expensive than non-dry ropes.
Non-Dry Rope: A non-dry climbing rope is suited for dry conditions. Although the two terms can be misleading, you’ll want to pick the correct rope for your intended use.
Times, when a non-dry rope is appropriate, are gym climbing and during any dry day out at the crag. When a non-dry rope gets wet, its elasticity weakens, and it gains water weight, making it heavier.
How to Pick a Climbing Rope Length
Climbing ropes are measured in meters. This can be confusing because many climbs are measured in feet, and the beta doesn’t always include what length of rope is best to use. Become familiar with the conversion that 1 meter = 3.3 feet, and you’ll be fine!
Before you decide on a rope’s length, determine where you’ll be climbing with it. You can take a 60m rope to many crags and be perfectly fine, but you should never assume it will be fine.
(Remember to always tie a not in the bottom of your rope to prevent lowering your climber off the end).
If you’re only planning to use your rope for gym climbing, then you should figure out the height of the walls. A 30 or 45-meter rope is often used for climbing in the gym. If you plan to take your new rope to a climbing area, first check what length of rope is needed!
While it’s always great to have the extra rope length if needed, a longer rope is more expensive and heavier to haul around.
Diameter of Climbing Rope
The diameter of the rope you choose will, you guessed, depend on what you want to use it for. An excellent tip to remember, which may seem obvious, is that the smaller the diameter of the rope, the quicker it will slide through your belay device.
A 9.8-10.2mm rope is fine for gym climbing and general top roping. The wider the rope, the more effort it will take to pull through a belay device.
The 9.4-9.7mm rope is versatile and will serve you well in various climbing scenarios, from cragging to multi-pitching. This flexibility should provide reassurance in your rope selection.
For alpine climbing, redpointing, or multi-pitching, where the weight starts to add up, a rope between 8.5 and 9.3mm is your friend. If choosing a skinnier rope, ensure you’re well-versed in belaying and rope management.