Do you need help understanding what climbers at the gym are saying? When getting beta, does “Toe-hook the jib then deadpoint to the crimp” confuse you?
Climbers know it; their slang is weird. But the vocabulary is part of what makes the climbing culture so great! They use strange verbiage, enjoy wrestling funky-colored walls, and are covered in chalk 90% of the time.
Instead of feeling lost in translation when you hear terms like “gaston the side-pull,” get ready to dive into the exciting world of rock climbing lingo. Here, you can learn all the vocabulary you need to share beta on that pink climb at the gym and join in the fun conversations with your fellow climbers. It’s like learning a secret language that brings you closer to the climbing community.
Barndoor: When you swing off while you have the same side foot and hand on the wall.
Beta: The “how-to” in climbing. ‘Beta’ refers to how a climb is done. It’s the sequence of moves, the best way to position your body and the most efficient way to use the holds. A popular thing you’ll hear at the gym is, “What’s the beta?” (They’re asking how to climb something.)
Crux: The most challenging sequence of moves on a climb.
Dab: When your foot touches the ground or a hold on a different climb than you’re doing.
Dynamic: To move quicker, usually done with a lot of swinging and lurching.
Dyno: When you jump from a hold to another hold!
Deadpoint: A controlled dynamic motion in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of the upward motion of the body while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the wall.
Flag: To use your free foot as a counterbalance by pressing it into the wall. (there are multiple flags: inside, back, and lower).
Flapper: Skin tearing due to friction with sharp edges or rough holds.
Flash: To climb something the first time you’ve tried it! Congrats!
Gaston: Grabbing a hold that is turned toward you with your thumb down and elbow out. When you hear ‘double gaston,’ think of what it looks like to manually open elevator doors.
Grade: The difficulty of a climb. Climbing grades are a way to communicate the difficulty of a climb. They range from beginner (V0 or 5.6) to expert (V16 or 5.15). The higher the number, the more difficult the climb.
Jib: A very tiny foothold.
Project: A climb you’ve been working on but haven’t sent yet. “I’m currently projecting the green one in the corner.”
Match: To grab a hold with both hands.
Mantel: To press yourself up the wall but push down on a usually large hold.
Project: A climb you’ve been working on but haven’t sent yet. “I’m currently projecting the green one in the corner.”
Pumped: When your forearms feel toast! This is when lactic acid builds up in your muscles, making them harder to use.
Sandbag: A climb with a much lower grade than it likely deserves. “That V2 felt more like a V4.”
Slab: A wall that leans away from you.
Static: To move in a controlled motion, usually with three points of contact always on the wall.
Send: To successfully complete a climb! You sent it!
Stemming: Using opposing forces to climb a corner by pushing opposite directions with the hands and feet.
Traverse: Climbing horizontally instead of vertically. Some climbs require a little traversing!
Roof: An overhang that is so steep that it is horizontal.
Are you overwhelmed yet? Don’t worry, there’s more!
Instead of overwhelming you with the entire glossary of climbing terms, we’re giving you just enough to get you started. Master these; you’ll be talking beta with all the crushers soon. Each term you learn is a step towards becoming a proficient climber, and that’s something to be proud of.
Crusher: One who climbs hard.
However, to truly understand what climbers are saying and to be fully prepared for climbing, it’s crucial to know the different holds and how to use them. This knowledge will make you feel more informed and enhance your climbing experience. Understanding the holds is like having a map to navigate the climbing world. It’s a game-changer.
Below are the most common types of holds that you’ll find at the climbing gym. While they can be smaller or bigger, this is a general definition of each type of climbing hold:
Crimp: A hold big enough to fit your fingertips.
Jug: A large in-cut hold that the fingers can grab into.
Mono: A pocket that you can only fit one finger into.
Pinch: A hold that you pinch either side of.
Pocket: A hold that you can only fit a few fingers into. (3-finger pocket/two-finger pocket).
Sloper: Weird blobs that require open hands and significant friction to use.
Side-pull: Any type of climbing hold that is sideways.
Undercling: Any type of climbing hold that is upside down.
Volume: A geometric shape screwed onto the wall that changes the shape of the whole wall. It can be used as a hold itself, and holds can also then be screwed on it.