In a world with so many choices, it’s hard to determine which type of rock climbing carabiners you should use. These essential tools, originally designed for use in mountaineering, have evolved over the years to meet the specific needs of rock climbers. There are some with wire gates, others with two gates, some that screw and lock, others that don’t allow cross-loading, some made with magnets; you get the idea.
Despite the initial overwhelm, understanding rock climbing carabiners is simpler than it seems. Every carabiner can be easily categorized into two groups: locking and non-locking, providing a clear and straightforward guide for climbers.
Locking Carabiners: Where to Use Them
A locking carabiner includes a function that requires more than one step to open. Lockers allow climbers to feel secure when they cannot observe the gear or when the accidental opening could be hazardous and potentially fatal for a climber.
One scenario where locking carabiners should be used is at the top of a climb where you want to set a top rope. Instead of using non-locking carabiners that have the potential to open when rubbed against the rock, a locking carabiner will perform better and be more secure.
You should also use a locking carabiner when attaching a belay device to your harness. Using a carabiner that can’t accidentally or easily open creates a more secure environment for both parties involved in a climb.
Essentially, you want to always use a locking carabiner in a situation where the accidental opening of the gear could be extremely dangerous or fatal for either party.
Types of Locking Carabiners
Screw Gate – A screw gate carabiner features a screw sleeve over the gate. Screw the sleeve toward the top to lock and toward the bottom to open.
Twist-lock – A twist-lock carabiner has a sleeve that, instead of screwing, needs to be twisted to open. Another version of the twist-lock requires a climber to push the sleeve toward the top of the carabiner, then twist and open it. These carabiners are self-locking and will secure just by letting go of the gate.
Twin Gate – A twin gate carabiner includes two opposed gates that act as the locking mechanism. To open, you must first open one gate to reach the next.
Magnetic – A magnetic locking carabiner, you guessed it, uses magnetics to secure it closed.
Non-Locking Carabiner: Where to Use Them
As mentioned, non-locking carabiners can be pushed open when rubbed against rocks or other things like the rope or tree branches on a route. This is known as ‘cross-loading, ‘a situation where the carabiner is loaded sideways, which can weaken it and increase the risk of it opening unintentionally.
You’ll typically use non-locking carabiners on gear like quickdraws, trad gear, and other applications where you want to clip something quickly. Of course, locking every carabiner is a more secure way to rock climb, but efficiency matters, too. Quickdraws or trad gear are made to be used on a route where you encounter many different places for protection and don’t need to rely on a single piece, unlike when you use locking carabiners.
Rock Climbing Carabiners Explained
Rock climbing, as a rule of thumb, requires adaptability. There are two types of rock climbing carabiners: locking and non-locking, and it’s crucial to understand when to use each type. This adaptability empowers climbers to keep their climbs as safe as possible with the gear they have.
Say you’re multipitching and don’t have a locking carabiner to use when you want to bring your second up. Many climbers don’t use locking carabiners on their multi-pitch anchors because they’re at an observed belay. If anything funky happens to a gate on their non-lockers, they should notice it to deal with it.
As you build your rock climbing gear collection, you’ll discover the versatility of carabiners. Many carabiners can be used for the same applications, and while some may work slightly better for certain things than others, this versatility ensures you have the right tool for the job.
Carabiners come in all shapes and sizes! There’s no need to use a large locking carabiner when you want to clip your brush or nut tool to your harness; this is how you end up with small ones! Instead of using the regular lockers you have been using for belaying, you may try out a gridlock that secures your belay device in a better orientation to prevent it from cross-loading.
Many scenarios include understanding how to use different carabiners for different applications. As you become more familiar with your gear, you’ll know how to make do with what you have and feel confident.