There are many paths you can embark on in rock climbing. One in particular is a path lined with shots of adrenaline, make-or-break moments. The climber who embraces this path desires to challenge their abilities and prove themselves against others. No matter how small, a part of them revels in the thrill and excitement of a rock climbing competition.
Not all competition experiences are equal. And, if unlucky, a lousy comp can sour the taste in your mouth, pushing you toward other avenues such as outdoor climbing or simply as a recreational activity. But the great competitions, like the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup or the USA Climbing National Championships, will give you the feeling of being on a high, fire up your desire to train, and leave you with the itch to sign up for more. What separates these great rock climbing competitions from mediocre ones? What features will feed rather than dampen the competitive drive lurking with you? For each individual, the critical components of great comp and their order of importance will vary slightly. However, there are standard criteria that, if met, will guarantee a great rock climbing competition and experience. Let’s break down what to look for in a competition!
Attribute of a Great Rock Climbing Competition
- Well Organized
The last thing you want to feel during a competition is stress. Yes, you may feel the pressure to perform, but you don’t want an unorganized environment. A well-planned and organized climbing competition will give every competitor adequate climbing time, have a variety of well-set boulders or routes, have judges to mark scorecards, and run on time (barring any emergencies or unforeseen circumstances). Combined, you have a well-organized competition that contributes to a relaxed environment and a sense of accomplishment.
- Positive Atmosphere
Half of the rock climbing experience is the incredible community and people surrounding you. The same extends to a competition experience. A positive atmosphere fostered by the host gym staff and other competitors can make or break the day. In addition to the crowd, upbeat music and a bright, clean space can elevate the competition and boost the mood, making you feel welcomed and part of something bigger.
- Variety of climbs
A great competition has a variety of climbs. Not only is variation in movement and holds exciting and challenging for the climber, but variation in difficulty is essential. A good competition set caters to the skill level of climbers in attendance. If it’s broken up into beginner, intermediate, and advanced categories, the difficulty spread should reflect their differences in abilities. Within each category, it’s also essential to have climbs catering to different skill sets. For example, a great competition will have climbs on slabs, overhung, vertical faces, and climbs with crimps, pinches/slopers, and dynamic moves. Even if the difficulties of all the climbs are deemed similar, climbers each have a style they excel at more than the others. Climbers will feel discouraged and unlikely to return for a future comp if all the problems feel too hard and may not feel challenged enough if they flash everything (not to mention determining winners will be a nightmare).
- Exhilarating Finals Round
The most exciting competitions for both competitors and spectators are those with finals. Following the conclusion of the modified red-point comp (what most gyms use for competition format), the top male and female climbers will participate in a round of onsight competitions where they will preview the climb(s) for a few minutes and then go to another room for isolation. One male and a female will come out at a time and have four minutes to try and finish the climb. As a climber, being in finals is exhilarating. You can climb fun yet challenging sets in front of a crowd cheering you on, sometimes even with a spotlight. As a spectator, the energy is electric as the commentator hypes everyone up and introduces each competitor.
- Good Prizes
It’d be remiss not to mention the prospect of prizes. While competing for glory is all good fun, you have to pay an entry fee to climb in these competitions, and sometimes, the entry fee can be hefty. While we’d hope your motives for competing are more intrinsic, it’s nice to know that worthwhile awards await. New climbing gear or monetary prizes are ideal, as you can reinvest them into future competitions or training efforts.
You’ll know you have attended an excellent climbing competition if it was well organized, provided a positive atmosphere, had a variety of climbs, ended with an electrifying finals round, and awarded worthwhile prizes. Even if all attributes aren’t met, having some combination will ensure an enjoyable competition. But everyone is different and has their preferences, so if you think this list is missing something that makes a rock climbing competition great, share it below! Remember, when looking for a competition, consider factors such as the reputation of the organizer, the location and facilities, the competition format, and the prize pool.